Konnichiwa Four Seasons Marunouchi

"Welcome, Mrs. B," the doorlady bowed and greeted me by name in perfect English at the Four Seasons Marunouchi, a sleek low building between Tokyo Station (think: Paddington) and Ginza (think: Oxford Circus).  Hai, this neko (cat) friendly hotel recognizes a neko owner on sight. Are we the only guests here, this welcome made me wonder.  (Sumimassen, a few other gaijin appeared later.) A cage large enough to accommodate a leopard graced a corner of the well appointed room, complete with food, bowls and the pee pads so popular among the lapdog set. Suki-chan made a graceful entrance, curling up in the obedient manner of Japanese pets.  Tokyo dog grooming parlors never cease to amuse as  furry, slutty clients allow themselves to be publicly rubbed and scrubbed.  

Decamping from the Manor means moving into a hotel for a brief stay, which allows for exploring Chiyoda, the part of town within sight of the Imperial Palace. For nearly a century Tokyo Eki has served as commuter central, and despite the firebombing of 1945 service has continued uninterrupted. Currently the east wing is undergoing a major facelift behind a white facade that will be removed in time to celebrate its centennial in 2013. On the other side of the tracks 10 minutes by foot leads to Muji Riushi; all chain stores including this fashionable no-label brand slash prices in July. A nice selection of lightweight cardigans fits gaijin shapes at a deep discount. Sugoi!

NHK evening news covered the stabbing death in Osaka of a 15 year old grandson by his irate 66 year old obaasan (granny) who allegedly was not happy with his test results. Next a report on the sumo scandal; wrestlers have been gambling and must make a collective bow of apology. Nihonjin viewers prefer baseball and golf nowadays, perhaps due to the fact that sumo yokozuno (champions) are gaijin.   Finally, the news turns to politics: Prime Minister Kan ("Yes we Kan") remains in place, the sixth prime minister in the four years of our residence, but his party has lost seats in the upper house.  Popularity is growing for Renho Murata, the half Taiwanese 42 year old Minister for Administrative Reform who could potentially be the first woman candidate for PM. Tomorrow's plan is a final visit to Harajuku, 25 minutes from the Four Seasons via the Yamanote (Circle Line), for a visit to Hokusai exhibit at the Ota Museum.