Only in this town do rock concerts begin promptly at sundown, a groupie's early bird special. Dylan's show was no exception as men in black leather with sleek ponytails flooded into Zepp Tokyo at 7 PM on the far side of the bay in Odaiba, yet another teen mecca. My nihonjin guest and I slipped in through the VIP line, guided up to the balcony, our seats in the center of the row beside a woman in black cashmere and diamond studs. Her date (in suit and tie) appeared to be a captain of industry.The theater went dark almost instantly: When the lights come on, we were transported back to the Age of Aquarius as Bob and company open with "Everybody Must Get Stoned." In front of me a guy in baseball cap with gray ponytail clapped along with the crowd; only the youngsters by the stage jumped to their feet. Incense smoke wafted upwards.
Bob, the legend in gaucho hat and a Royal Mounties uniform (complete with medallions), crooned solo for two hours. Cooler than all the celebs who depicted him in the 2007 film "I'm Not There" (Christian Bale, Cate Blanchett, Heath Ledger etc), he swayed to the tunes as he leaned into the electric organ and wailed on the harmonica. Raspy voice harsher, a la Louis Armstrong, when it gave out he recited the words to outbursts from the fans. Some old standards were unrecognizable due to a jazzier beat and the ojiisan (grandpa) croak: Desolation Row and Highway 61 were positively perky. His lungs kept the harmonica going through a series of familiar tunes. By the time he got to "Forever Young," the crowd was roaring. Could this be the finale?
Tokyo concert goers expect an encore at 8:30, on the road by nine. Sumimassen (excuse me): The cashmere clad woman and her husband snuck out early. Bob wowed the hardy souls who stayed behind with "Like a Rolling Stone" and an unfamiliar rendition of "Blowin' in the Wind," asking the audience: "How does it feel to be without a home...." The nearly 70 year old rocker took his bow at 9 PM, and his loyal followers who traveled to the outskirts were able to hit the futon by 11 PM latest.
Tuesday, March 30, 2010
Monday, March 29, 2010
Anime Fair
Curiosity and a daughter with a long-standing interest in anime compelled a trip to the convention center nicknamed Tokyo Big Sight. The Conference Tower (four inverted pyramids) looks like a giant robot keeping Tokyo Bay safe from alien intruders. Like the Javits Center in NYC, this place requires hiking through endless hallways, hopping on moving walkways and navigating many escalators to get to the destination of choice. A few oddly dressed youngsters indulging in "cos play" (costume play) plus 54,000 other normally dressed folks led the way to the International Anime Fair 2010. Along the outside of the building, public art pieces by big names (ie Claes Oldenburg) broke up the long trudge to the atrium.
For Y 1,000 or $12 (half price for students) a visitor could spend time with representatives from companies such as Studio Ghibli, the producer of classics "Princess Mononoke" and "Howl's Moving Castle." Toddlers were going gaga for Anpanman (Red Bean Man), a super hero whose head is essentially a jelly donut. The other hit for the under-five set was a soy bean character called Spring. Pokemon was in great evidence, with Pikachu receiving sloppy kisses from pintsize admirers. For the teenagers screens blasted coming attractions in 3D, booths offered giveaway tote bags as well as appearances by some of the actors and actresses, which created a feeding frenzy of keitai (cell phones) snapping photos of the celebs. Pillows in the shape of some of the shapely female characters sold out quickly. An Italian radio crew interviewed musume-chan (daughter) about what brought her to this Fair.
After 90 minutes of this onslaught, it was time for a sit-down at the coffeeshop called Pronto. Gaijin (foreigners) at the next tables were exchanging telephone numbers, while nihonjin (locals) were cradling tote bags covered with illustrations of some Goth looking characters. Can it be a coincidence that tomorrow evening just one subway stop away I will hear Bob Dylan crooning at a hall called Zepp?
For Y 1,000 or $12 (half price for students) a visitor could spend time with representatives from companies such as Studio Ghibli, the producer of classics "Princess Mononoke" and "Howl's Moving Castle." Toddlers were going gaga for Anpanman (Red Bean Man), a super hero whose head is essentially a jelly donut. The other hit for the under-five set was a soy bean character called Spring. Pokemon was in great evidence, with Pikachu receiving sloppy kisses from pintsize admirers. For the teenagers screens blasted coming attractions in 3D, booths offered giveaway tote bags as well as appearances by some of the actors and actresses, which created a feeding frenzy of keitai (cell phones) snapping photos of the celebs. Pillows in the shape of some of the shapely female characters sold out quickly. An Italian radio crew interviewed musume-chan (daughter) about what brought her to this Fair.
After 90 minutes of this onslaught, it was time for a sit-down at the coffeeshop called Pronto. Gaijin (foreigners) at the next tables were exchanging telephone numbers, while nihonjin (locals) were cradling tote bags covered with illustrations of some Goth looking characters. Can it be a coincidence that tomorrow evening just one subway stop away I will hear Bob Dylan crooning at a hall called Zepp?
Saturday, March 27, 2010
Shinjuku Gyoen O-hanami
What a treat to picnic on a blue tarp one sunny Saturday in Shinjuku Gyoen (imagine Central Park with a $2 admission charge) among legions of o-hanami enthusiasts. No sooner is sakura season announced than parks all over Tokyo are covered by standard issue blue tarps. Picnickers arrive, step out of their shoes and on to the tarp where a feast is laid out and devoured. In between bites, picnickers rush up to the closest tree in bloom and focus the zoom lens on the prettiest blossom. Paler shades are more popular than magenta, although some Shinjuku trees displayed a range from strawberry to pearl. Sugoi!
Our gracious host, Senichi-san, is one of the "unofficial ambassadors" who offer English tours in town through Tokyo Free Guides. Alice (our first Tokyo visitor) introduced us to the group and since 2007 Senichi-san has become a friend as well as local resource. While the volunteer guides have the chance to practice English conversation, thanks to their outreach foreign visitors maximize their time in Tokyo. The group celebrated its fifth anniversary last year -- omedetou gozaimasu (congrats).
Rounding out the first weekend of this short season our family strolled over to Roppongi Hills for the interactive Art Night 2010. A 13 meter tall balloon installation called Before Flower looked above the throng. Our favorite piece featured six monitors that displayed a variety of neko-chan (cats) doing their thing, with a brief written blurb explaining that watching cats makes people happy. Overhead a huge monitor recorded the comings and goings of visitors as a large arm occasionally patted the stray head. In an oversize playpen groups of eight were instructed to fling pink confetti while onlookers cheered. What freedom sakura time permits to Tokyoites for two weeks a year. No one wants to miss the opportunity.
Our gracious host, Senichi-san, is one of the "unofficial ambassadors" who offer English tours in town through Tokyo Free Guides. Alice (our first Tokyo visitor) introduced us to the group and since 2007 Senichi-san has become a friend as well as local resource. While the volunteer guides have the chance to practice English conversation, thanks to their outreach foreign visitors maximize their time in Tokyo. The group celebrated its fifth anniversary last year -- omedetou gozaimasu (congrats).
Rounding out the first weekend of this short season our family strolled over to Roppongi Hills for the interactive Art Night 2010. A 13 meter tall balloon installation called Before Flower looked above the throng. Our favorite piece featured six monitors that displayed a variety of neko-chan (cats) doing their thing, with a brief written blurb explaining that watching cats makes people happy. Overhead a huge monitor recorded the comings and goings of visitors as a large arm occasionally patted the stray head. In an oversize playpen groups of eight were instructed to fling pink confetti while onlookers cheered. What freedom sakura time permits to Tokyoites for two weeks a year. No one wants to miss the opportunity.
Friday, March 26, 2010
Pillow Talk
Go-ju kata ("50 year old shoulder" aka frozen shoulder) is plaguing my lovely ladies who buzz the Manor doorbell promptly at 11 AM every Wednesday for English conversation group. While I suffered the pummelings of good old-fashioned physical therapy during my bout with frozen shoulder, these women opt for acupuncture and herbal remedies. The cooking sensei enrolled in a ballet stretch class to keep her spine supple. "I am the youngest one in the class, " she confided, "and I am 52." To sleep with or without a pillow? Without (or with a thin one) seemed to be most popular. Discussion turned to a magical item that Uniqlo sells for the very purpose of keeping shoulder blades together."But it is difficult to find one," the world traveler complained. Each of us self-consciously pulled our shoulders back.
"Shall we read a book on feng shui next month?" I asked. My limited grasp of kanji (Chinese characters) includes these two, literally "wind" and "water." No offense intended, Mr. A.A. Milne: Although the group has been politely ploughing through the adventures of Pooh san, the time has come for a new subject. "May I tell you something?" the cooking sensei asked the group rhetorically. "My son decided to stop going to university last year. I was so worried that I went to a feng shui expert. He advised me to place my son's bed in the North side of the room!" A shudder swept through the group: In Japan only the dead lie with the head to the North. She tried it, and her son returned to university. Next, the expert advised bowls of salt by the sink in her kitchen. "It is expensive to buy so much salt, but we are all doing well in the family," she concluded with an apology for taking so much class time. Across the road in the Juban restaurants keep bowls of salt at the threshold, perhaps for this reason.
Our tea master, also a proud grandmother, revealed that the walls of her home contain blessings on washi paper that her mother wrote and inserted before they were covered up with plaster. (New buildings, skyscrapers included, are routinely blessed upon completion.) Beverage of choice before bed seems to be camomille tea, although the world traveler admitted to the occasional cup of hot milk as it is "good for health." Milk is sold in quarts and pints, in this country that acquired a taste for dairy in the second half of the 20th century.
A little camomille tea might work for me as I fret about my ticket for the Bob Dylan, which has yet to arrive for Monday's concert.
"Shall we read a book on feng shui next month?" I asked. My limited grasp of kanji (Chinese characters) includes these two, literally "wind" and "water." No offense intended, Mr. A.A. Milne: Although the group has been politely ploughing through the adventures of Pooh san, the time has come for a new subject. "May I tell you something?" the cooking sensei asked the group rhetorically. "My son decided to stop going to university last year. I was so worried that I went to a feng shui expert. He advised me to place my son's bed in the North side of the room!" A shudder swept through the group: In Japan only the dead lie with the head to the North. She tried it, and her son returned to university. Next, the expert advised bowls of salt by the sink in her kitchen. "It is expensive to buy so much salt, but we are all doing well in the family," she concluded with an apology for taking so much class time. Across the road in the Juban restaurants keep bowls of salt at the threshold, perhaps for this reason.
Our tea master, also a proud grandmother, revealed that the walls of her home contain blessings on washi paper that her mother wrote and inserted before they were covered up with plaster. (New buildings, skyscrapers included, are routinely blessed upon completion.) Beverage of choice before bed seems to be camomille tea, although the world traveler admitted to the occasional cup of hot milk as it is "good for health." Milk is sold in quarts and pints, in this country that acquired a taste for dairy in the second half of the 20th century.
A little camomille tea might work for me as I fret about my ticket for the Bob Dylan, which has yet to arrive for Monday's concert.
Thursday, March 25, 2010
Secrets of Calligraphy
What could be cozier on a rainy afternoon than a matinee at kabuki-za with two lovely tomodachi (friends)? With 37 days until the wrecking ball arrives (plus three years until the earthquake proof theater opens) management is dealing with record crowds saying Sayonara to the 120 year old building. A mere Y1200 (about $15) purchased a small seat for Hitomaku-mi (one act) in the peanut gallery by the rafters. The key to grabbing an unreserved seat is to join the queue at least 25 minutes before tickets go on sale; afterwards, SRO (standing room only). Among the ardent groupies we climbed the steep red-carpeted steps to the top, flinging coats on the available seats and renting audiophones with simultaneous translation.
For four centuries kabuki actors have entertained audiences in and around Edo (Tokyo). Like English pantomime these shows are reruns of old fables; the actors are the draw. Also in the tradition of English panto, female roles are played by men although not as flamboyantly as the panto dames. Today's cast was stellar, judging by the reaction of the audience. Experts shout out stage names of their favorites at key scenes known to insiders; we were seated by one such vociferous gentleman (only men seem to care). How fitting to watch "Secrets of Calligraphy" during spring break from our calligraphy class. While the secret is never revealed, for 90 minutes we followed the story of the expert Kan Shojo who passes a scroll with the secret to his disciple. Sword fights, a love story, and a calligraphy scene ensue. When the buffoon attempts to steal the scroll that contains the secret, he is punished by having a desk strapped to his back.
Back down on the dori (avenue), we navigated a few blocks to Ginza, (think Fifth Avenue); a few brave cherry trees starting to display in the cold rain. No time to browse at Itoya, the world's best stationer, or the large Muji since rush hour is upon us. At lunch we discovered the rainy day special: All you can eat dessert. Isn't one teaspoon of ice cream sufficient? I bet Bob Dylan doesn't look back.
For four centuries kabuki actors have entertained audiences in and around Edo (Tokyo). Like English pantomime these shows are reruns of old fables; the actors are the draw. Also in the tradition of English panto, female roles are played by men although not as flamboyantly as the panto dames. Today's cast was stellar, judging by the reaction of the audience. Experts shout out stage names of their favorites at key scenes known to insiders; we were seated by one such vociferous gentleman (only men seem to care). How fitting to watch "Secrets of Calligraphy" during spring break from our calligraphy class. While the secret is never revealed, for 90 minutes we followed the story of the expert Kan Shojo who passes a scroll with the secret to his disciple. Sword fights, a love story, and a calligraphy scene ensue. When the buffoon attempts to steal the scroll that contains the secret, he is punished by having a desk strapped to his back.
Back down on the dori (avenue), we navigated a few blocks to Ginza, (think Fifth Avenue); a few brave cherry trees starting to display in the cold rain. No time to browse at Itoya, the world's best stationer, or the large Muji since rush hour is upon us. At lunch we discovered the rainy day special: All you can eat dessert. Isn't one teaspoon of ice cream sufficient? I bet Bob Dylan doesn't look back.
Wednesday, March 24, 2010
Flower Viewing along Philosopher's Path
NHK weather forecasters confirm the start of o-hanami (cherry blossom season) more than a week early in Kyoto and on schedule in Tokyo. By closely monitoring selected trees, the Meteorological Agency counts five flowers per tree as the key signal. The local tree grows nearby in Yasukuni Jinja, blithely oblivious to the political implications of its location. Dedicated to the kami (souls) of those who died in combat, the Yasukuni shrine complex is supported by the War Dead Family Welfare Union and includes a war museum with a revisionist point of view. While their line of work compels meteorologists to visit the shrine, the current Prime Minister and his cabinet may prefer to admire the trees along the Imperial Moat.
Two hours on the shinkansen (bullet train) transported our family to Kyoto, which served as the nation's capital from 794 to 1868. Zooming at 90 miles per hour through a sandstorm that blew across from China, the next day we were rewarded with clear skies. Mid-morning at the Silver Pavilion, Ginkakuji was swarming with Japanese visitors photographing its renowned raked gardens. Originally intended as a retirement home for a shogun, for 500 years it has served as a Zen temple; thanks to recent earthquake proofing, it is guaranteed another 500 years. Outside the gates we followed in the footsteps of Nishida Kitaro along Tetsugaku no michi (Philosopher's path) who made the daily trek by the canal to Kyoto University. A few early bloomers sparked a paparazzi-like flurry of snapping while vendors sold a variety of potato treats including yaki imo (baked sweet potato) along the two kilometer stretch. Temple cats lolled in the sunshine, welcoming visitors to the sandy garden.
Last stop in Kansai was rain-soaked Nara, which is celebrating its 1,300th anniversary. Sacred shika (deer) make themselves available to accept special crackers sold for their culinary pleasure. Ever tried to feed a herd of deer? Very fast work. Walking to the Great Buddha Hall, founded in 728 AD, the deer strike a variety of alluring poses. Once inside the Hall the single challenge is to shimmy through a hole in a huge supporting pillar to guarantee enlightenment in the next life. (No one in this family earned that status.) A steady rain and drop in temperatures are postponing flower viewing in Tokyo to the weekend: By Monday will I be ready to venture indoors to Zepp to hear Bob Dylan's last night in town?
Two hours on the shinkansen (bullet train) transported our family to Kyoto, which served as the nation's capital from 794 to 1868. Zooming at 90 miles per hour through a sandstorm that blew across from China, the next day we were rewarded with clear skies. Mid-morning at the Silver Pavilion, Ginkakuji was swarming with Japanese visitors photographing its renowned raked gardens. Originally intended as a retirement home for a shogun, for 500 years it has served as a Zen temple; thanks to recent earthquake proofing, it is guaranteed another 500 years. Outside the gates we followed in the footsteps of Nishida Kitaro along Tetsugaku no michi (Philosopher's path) who made the daily trek by the canal to Kyoto University. A few early bloomers sparked a paparazzi-like flurry of snapping while vendors sold a variety of potato treats including yaki imo (baked sweet potato) along the two kilometer stretch. Temple cats lolled in the sunshine, welcoming visitors to the sandy garden.
Last stop in Kansai was rain-soaked Nara, which is celebrating its 1,300th anniversary. Sacred shika (deer) make themselves available to accept special crackers sold for their culinary pleasure. Ever tried to feed a herd of deer? Very fast work. Walking to the Great Buddha Hall, founded in 728 AD, the deer strike a variety of alluring poses. Once inside the Hall the single challenge is to shimmy through a hole in a huge supporting pillar to guarantee enlightenment in the next life. (No one in this family earned that status.) A steady rain and drop in temperatures are postponing flower viewing in Tokyo to the weekend: By Monday will I be ready to venture indoors to Zepp to hear Bob Dylan's last night in town?
Saturday, March 20, 2010
Graduation season
"Did you notice loads of girls in kimono at Omotesando eki (subway station)?" was the topic at nihongo conversation. Since the Japanese school year ends in March, these young ladies were decked out for graduation ceremonies. Floral and fan patterns with full-length sleeves hanging almost to the hem, an obi or Japanese sash (as crossword solvers know) with an obijime (cord) and obidomegane (clip) to hold the kimono closed. Excellent way to improve posture when properly tied. Hair is worn swept up with the occasional flower, feet enclosed in tabi (mittens for feet) inserted into zori (sandals) that create mincing steps.
Twelve months of the year commuters spot kimono clad women riding the subways of Tokyo. "How many more seasons do I have?" sighed calligraphy sensei, who sensibly wants to get her money's worth from this pricey outfit. What occasions require formal wear? Obvious ones like weddings and funerals, followed by classes in the traditional arts such as ikebana (flower arranging) and temae (tea ceremony), which takes decades to master.
By season and age the kimono system follows a strict code with the turning point at arou-fo (around 40): Older kimono wearers must select muted tones. Once I took a fan dance lesson, strapped into a kimono. (Twirling and kneeling were a challenge.) For optimal shape, beneath the kimono lies an undershirt or hadagi , the underskirt or susoyoke, waist pads and bow pads. Is it all right to carry a handbag that doesn't match the zori? (Sometimes.)
Spring is a bank holiday and a signal for the spring kimono to make its appearance. Let's see what the Kyoto natives wear as we count down to the March 29th Bob Dylan concert.
Twelve months of the year commuters spot kimono clad women riding the subways of Tokyo. "How many more seasons do I have?" sighed calligraphy sensei, who sensibly wants to get her money's worth from this pricey outfit. What occasions require formal wear? Obvious ones like weddings and funerals, followed by classes in the traditional arts such as ikebana (flower arranging) and temae (tea ceremony), which takes decades to master.
By season and age the kimono system follows a strict code with the turning point at arou-fo (around 40): Older kimono wearers must select muted tones. Once I took a fan dance lesson, strapped into a kimono. (Twirling and kneeling were a challenge.) For optimal shape, beneath the kimono lies an undershirt or hadagi , the underskirt or susoyoke, waist pads and bow pads. Is it all right to carry a handbag that doesn't match the zori? (Sometimes.)
Spring is a bank holiday and a signal for the spring kimono to make its appearance. Let's see what the Kyoto natives wear as we count down to the March 29th Bob Dylan concert.
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