T minus 10 days

"The nail that sticks up is hammered down." This Japanese proverb was the last wisdom offered in a cultural training session before take-off from New York in 2007. Rugged individualism has no place in Tokyo. "You're so New York," I've been told. Does that mean sticking up nail? How do nails hold the box together without a hammer? I want to find out.

G-san has e-mailed me a minute-by-minute schedule for the two hour Sudoku Fun Day. Yes, everyone is a nail in this 9 x 9 box! My role (five minutes) is to introduce the guest of honor, Kaji san (10 minutes). Then K-san explains the rules (15 minutes) and the puzzle is distributed. Nikoli estimates that even fast solvers need 20 minutes to complete the sudoku. Winners are selected (10 minutes). Awards (20 minutes). The only remaining question is: Will there be a booby prize?

Gratifying to see posters at TAC promoting Sudoku Fun Day and an email sent in English and Japanese. I am free to spend the afternoon at Kabuki-za, the Japanese opera house that is to be demolished in 95 days. Benjamin Harrison was president when this stately theater was built so it is not earthquake proof. No Jackie Kennedy rescue a la Grand Central Station, so down it will come.

For Y 1,000 ($12) I find a seat in the peanut gallery for Haru no Kotobuki (New Year Celebration). As with opera, the audience knows the plot; they are fans of the performers. Final day of the New Year's Program and the audience is keyed up. Kimonoed ladies fill the orchestra seats. Rather than shouting "Bravo" at the end, the (male) aficionados bellow out the names of the performers at appropriate times and startle me. The ensemble (all men) reenact tales from centuries ago. The text is in old Japanese, which means I am not the only one with an audiophone. Backstage do the performers work sudoku? I am becoming obsessed.