Democrats in Tokyo

    Wedged between Daimaru Peacock Supa and Quick Photo in the Ju-ban, the Blue & White store front is a landmark to those in the know. Displays of local crafts change daily, providing amusement for the grocery shopping trade. When US  presidents stop in Tokyo, their First Ladies make a beeline to this sliver of a shop that has been in the location for 35 years. The secret to the shop's success is the owner, author of Japan Country Living," who also happens to be the niece of old-time New York Mayor Robert Wagner.  In the 1960s she married a Japanese exchange student, despite a letter his parents had him sign promising not to bring home a gaijin bride, and they settled in Tokyo.

     One snowy winter's day I was invited to tag along with the owner of Blue & White to visit a local craftsman in Hachioji, on the outskirts of town. "I don't read Japanese," our driver told the two of us, while asking for directions every 15 minutes. Eventually we landed in a picturesque barn where artisans were making shibori fabric (tie-dye, to gaijin). We tied rubber bands to white Muji tee-shirts and dipped them into the pots of icy indigo dye. (Since the 8th century indigo has been the dye of choice in Japan.) Rather than the recommended number of dips, we were satisfied with the results after 20 minutes.

     Afterwards, our guide drove to a country inn where we coped with traditional kaiseki. Sitting on a tatami mat, which is a challenge to Western spines, the meal goes on all day. Although portions are smallish, the number of courses is surprisingly long and, just when you think it's over, the server presents a steaming bowl of rice. Leaving anything on your plate is considered rude and doggy bags don't exist. Yet Japanese women remain slender, which is a mystery. (I have been told the secret is cabbage soup only for the next few days.)

     With the number of native English speakers in Tokyo an estimated 1%, we swim in a small pool. Thanks to the generous editor of the Tokyo American Club magazine, my pool includes locals such as the Dutch born author of Showa Japan, the Emperor Showa (as Hirohito is now called). In a little more than a week, he will share the story of how he landed in this far-away land.