Tea Ceremony

     Chai lovers find comfort in Tokyo: Stabba (Starbucks) pops up every other block in this town. Rather than the hangout for laptop owners that it has become on New York's East Side, for label mad nihonjin Stabba is an upscale meeting place where patrons linger over a pricey beverage. (Only gaijin have the courage to sip take-away cups outside of the shop.)While Starbucks starts its service with "tall", Stabba offers chisai (small) cups at the "tall" price of Y 400. Much better value at the chain called Cafe de Crie where a cake set (coffee with a slice) goes for Y750. Or the Stabba take-away coffee-pot service, complete with paper cups and napkins, only Y 2,000 (about $22) for a thermos that serves 20 cups in the comfort of your home. No extra charge for the use of the thermos!

    At the other end of the spectrum is chanoyu (tea ceremony), the ancient ritual that continues to be a serious preoccupation for modern followers. To become a tea master requires decades of practice along with the responsibility to train the next generation. Five centuries ago tea master Sen no Rikyu promoted the concept of ichi go ichi e (one time, one meeting) to describe the respect that taking tea deserves. Each tool is a masterpiece of craftsmanship with the tea bowl the most prized item.  The Joy of Tea Drinking exhibit at the Idemitsu Museum on the ninth floor of the Imperial Theater Biru (building) provides the proper atmosphere to spend quality time with tomodachi (friends). Entry fee (Y1,000) includes a paper cup of matcha (green tea) at the end of the show, with seating that overlooks the very green Imperial Gardens. No extra charge for the sunshine that made a sudden appearance after a string of wet days.

    Afterwards back on the streets of Hibiya shoppers spill out of Bic Camera, with Ginza shops drawing people to the other side of the JR (Japan Rail) tracks. Where to stop for a final cup of tea before parting? Seats were scarce at La Mer Riche, and the Muji cafeteria was a bit too far away. On the lower ground level of the Tokyo International Forum an empty table appeared at the Excelsior Coffee Shop. In chairs rather than on a tatami mat, conversing rather than meditating, the spirit of Sen no Rikyu took on a 21st century flavor.