Thursday, April 1, 2010

A Visit to Ebisu

      For a nation that shuns public nose blowing, how to explain that packs of tissues are distributed free with ad inserts at every street corner? En route to this month's reunion of Eating Out Club, I accept three packets (Konami Sports Club, Yubin-nenga and Eau Douce)at Ebisu Station. Distributing tissues is a job that requires support from passers-by like me. Personal favorites in my copious collection include nearby Hotel The Glanz and AU (cell phone company), with a kawaii (cute) squirrel in its logo. Tissues come in handy for those of us who do not carry the requisite tenugui (hand towel) when stopping in the immaculate public restroom.

     Finding a location the first time is reminiscent of a needle in a haystack, even for native Tokyoites. Standard issue is the Tokyo City Atlas or, at the very least, a photocopied map. Only a few stops away on the Hibiya sen, Ebisu is new territory for me. Easiest way to reach a destination is to identify a landmark and navigate from there. Addresses consist of three numbers: Our London address, for example, 28 Kensington Square, W8 5 HH, would become 8-5-28 Kensington Square. Same elements, different system. The search for Harumi restaurant meant following arrows on a photocopied map. Suddenly at a crossroads, the trail went cold. Next course of action is to check electric poles for coordinates (ie a zip or post code). At that moment the cell phone vibrated: Salvation!  Just across the road--but wait: Tokyoites never jaywalk.

      Inside faux francais Harumi restaurant, all is crisp and cozy. Prix fixe of Y 2,600 includes three courses (about $30). Need I repeat that tipping does not exist? Since the death of our dear member S-san, the group has become more tightly knit. Two (of four) members uncharacteristically ordered wine with lunch! "Let's enjoy life!" urged H-san, who has reached a multiple of 12 this year of Tora (the Tiger). The chardonnay loosened her tongue, as she criticized Prime Minister Hatoyama in perfect English and confided that her husband's height was stunted in the war due to lack of calcium. "Sleep without a pillow to keep your neck taut," she advised, revealing a well toned jaw as she tilted her head back. Dessert included asparagus ice cream. At the door the chef, maitre d' and head waiter all bowed in unison with sincere thanks. Along the dori (avenue) the sakura (cherry blossoms) are already 60% opened; daily news reports cite the progress of blooms from Kyushu to Hokkaido. Hai, at least 10 more days of sakura viewing ahead!

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