1000 Year Old Fuji (Wisteria)

    Only two weeks ago the classic dance Fuji Musume (Wisteria Maiden) was performed at Kabuki-za, the landmark hall in Ginza, to a sold out house. Seated musicians played koto and drums as a top onnagata actor brought to life the 19th century tale of an innocent girl flirting with stage wisteria, ending the solo with a cup of sake. This month sadly Kabuki-za is history as it closes down to begin a three year renovation project, and Tokyoites celebrating Golden Week are searching out real wisteria in the far corners of the city.   

   Twenty minutes out of Shinjuku station (think: Grand Central at rush hour) on the Keio Line a tree grows in Fuda that supports the "1,000 year old" wisteria. From the eki (station) the scent of the ancient flower leads to Kokuryo-jinja, easy to spot beside a four-lane highway.  The shrine shop sells the usual amulets, including an ema (plaque) for writing a prayer to hang on the prayer rack. Admirers capture the delicate purple flower close-up on their keitai (cell phones), or climb the highway overpass for a bird's eye view. Crossing the Nogawa (river) the suburb turns into a country lane with well-tended gardens and seed shops that make for a pleasant stroll.

    What a surprise to reach civilization again and join hundreds of pilgrims at Jindai-ji, the 8th century water temple with a sacred pond. Surrounded by restaurants selling soba (buckwheat noodles), the local dish, family groups wait their turn in long queues. Rounding out the sensory experience at the top of the hill sits the Jindai Botanical Garden. In honor of the holiday the entry charge is waived, which means that visitors are pouring into the grounds. Yes, miles of fuji (wisteria), tsutsuji (azaleas), plus giant peonies and a greenhouse of exotic blooms. The appetite for flowers sated, Tokyites head back to Shinjuku where for a mere Y 550 the appetite for Japanese curry finds satisfaction. Itadakimasu!