Since nihonjin shun used goods, the secondhand market in Tokyo is a goldmine for gaijin. A fellow amerikajin from the academic ladies club (an avid kimono collector) shared the secret of her source: The Salvation Army in Suginami-ku. Coveting the elegant kimono worn by ladies traveling along the Namboku subway line en route to tea ceremony, ikebana lesson or wedding, was there much gold up north? One gray Saturday noon shodo tomodachi Madame G and I zoomed past Shinjuku via Yamanote (think: London's Circle Line) with transfer to the Marunouchi ("inside the circle") to dig for treasure. Exit at Nakano-Fukimicho turn left and at the Buddhist temple bear right 15 minutes past a hospital and another temple in Wada ni-chome to a small concrete building with a security guard outside. The gaijin looking at used bicycles confirm that you are there.
Inside the small building we found a dazzling array of items in immaculate condition, both Western and nihon. A quick sweep of crockery, with plates of every shape and design, yielded a quick treasure. Next, the kimono seller worked with Mme G for half an hour to find the correct length for a Western lady plus a good match for the obi (wide sash). A friendly nihon shopper lingered with us, and advised. At last, after much discussion in broken nihongo, each of us was pleased with her purchase. On to the stall of sensu (hand fans), invented 1300 years ago in Japan for the aristocracy. When irises are in bloom everyone whips out a fan (including men) to counteract the humidity. A delicate combination of bamboo and washi, lovely L-san of Yokohama presented me with a stunning sensu so elegant in its box that I am reluctant to disturb it. Ding-ding! Closing time at 2 PM cut our hunt short. Will there be a local eatery to provide a late lunch?
Only a block away, Mme G slid open the door of a soba (Japanese noodle) place. Absolutely empty, the hostess beckoned us in and we ordered the lunch set at Y 750 (about $9) with warm udon (wheat) rather than cold soba (buckwheat) since the day turned raw. The tray arrived with spring roll, udon, dipping sauce and small salad. The hostess told us her aunt lives in Los Angeles and that her younger brother owns the restaurant. As if expecting us, she was fully made up and camera ready. Since the shop has no business card, she gave us the take-out menu and we promised to return. Will there be time before musume-chan's high school graduation in two weeks? Time is running short.
Saturday, May 29, 2010
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oh boy how I miss that place.
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