Cafe Society

     Surprise! Macha (green tea) is not the hot beverage of choice in Tokyo: It's coffee. On the high end you bump into Stabba (aka Starbucks) every block or two. Azabu Ju-ban Dori features one at either end, a freestanding duplex and another inside Tsutaya, the local version of Barnes and Noble bookstore. Sippers browse magazines just as if they were sitting on East 86th Street, only the publications are in Japanese. Rather than cheap office space for laptop owners, Stabba in Tokyo serves as a meeting place for girlfriends who want an expensive room in which to display their Louis Vuitton bags. Occasionally, tables for two become impromptu classrooms for English or nihongo lessons.

     Segafreddo, the original chain in town, still offers the best espresso in Minato-ku. Like an Italian coffee bar, customers perch atop stools. Thirdly, coffee lovers have the West coast option of Tully's, which is hellish to pronounce. Azabu Ju-ban Dori, which is only about five blocks long, features two of these. Each Tully's has outdoor seating for the smokers who seem to favor this brand of java. Inevitably, in the center of the Ju-ban, an intriguing man with a dyed blonde ponytail and ivory spectacles puffs away at Tully's in what appears to be his reserved seat. Sometimes he whizzes past me on his bicycle and I am tempted to bow as he passes. If you just want a quick fix vending machines sell Wonda for Y120, hot coffee in a can.

    For an undistinguished cup of joe, served with an unwanted dash of cinnamon, we go to the Tokyo American Club. Stuck in a time warp, TAC also features a salad bar with cottage cheese. Tomorrow evening TAC will provide the backdrop for my meeting with Mr Room to Read, John Wood, who will address a sizeable audience in the Manhattan Room.  Can he possibly be more engaging than the Father of Sudoku? Stay tuned.