After staring at Tokyo Tower from the Manor for three plus years, the time was ripe for a trip to the viewing station. A slightly taller clone of the Eiffel, the nihon Tower bathes in orange light at sundown with blue lights between 8 and 10 PM. "Yes, let's go," said tomodachi-san, whose little daughter I taught at an afterschool English program (organized by the academically oriented women's group). "I haven't been there since my school days," echoed three other tomodachis. All agreed to meet on a weekday lunch hour on what turned out to be one of the hottest days of June. For Y820 each, the elevator lifted us to the first viewing station at the midpoint of the Tower. (For another Y600 visitors zoom to the top but that entailed a long wait.)
In a city where addresses are expressed by coordinates, landmarks rule: Tokyo Tower stands out from almost everywhere around town. Lording over the friendly sounding park of Shiba Koen, the Tower functions as a glamorous stand for an antenna. (After faithfully broadcasting NHK programs for 52 years, the Tower's function is about to be dwarfed by giant Tokyo Sky Tree going up in Oshiage by the Sumida river.) In the brilliant sunshine, Tower visitors admired the panorama from the Observation Deck. "How many new skyscrapers!" was the consensus of tomodachis. Fun to look down on the construction of the new Tokyo American Club and to find the Manor hidden between a pair of new highrises. Pretty Rainbow Bridge connects Shibaura Pier to Odaiba, one of the many teenage meccas. A quick visit to the "lookdown window" (glass tiled floor board), and the Milky Way display (a cheesy combination of blue holiday lights and saran wrap) completed the tour.
As all proper excursions end with a meal, the food court on the second story supplied a wide selection (pizza, sandwiches, curry and the omnipresent Macdonalds). In a country where purse snatching is unheard of, it is customary to leave personal belongings on the table while going off to purchase food. On the floor below for an extra fee fans may tour a Michael Jackson exhibit or make a reservation for the big "sleepover" planned for the end of June. Michael has a big following, although not among these tomodachis! Before saying sayonara, our organizing tomodachi-san with the English speaking daughter has set up an excursion to Ozu Washi Museum to make paper together. Raishu mata, ne! (See you next week!)
Friday, June 18, 2010
Thursday, June 17, 2010
Iris (Ayame) Viewing
Nihonjin are flower lovers with a matsuri (festival) every month to celebrate each stem. This week ayame (iris) are in the spotlight. "Shall we go to the Ayame Matsuri in Itako?" posed a pair of hana (flower) loving tomodachi san some weeks ago. Hai: Tokyoites typically satisfy the ayame urge in the garden at Meiji Jingu (the Shinto shrine dedicated to the 19th century emperor), which is conveniently located on the Yamanote sen (Circle Line) at Harajuku. Visiting Itako entails a trip via highway bus (Y 1,800 return) from Tokyo eki to Ibaraki prefecture heading north at 8:20 AM. By 9:30 an obliging taxi driver at the Kashima stop assured us that indeed the flowers reached their peak. Hai, by the calendar rainy season has started but not a drop falls in Itako.
First stop: A boat ride on the Tonegawa, second longest river in the country, flowing along fields of thousands of irises in shades of blue and purple. Women in colorful costumes with straw hats attacked like a pack of coyote, looking for boat riders. Tomodachi-san rejects the ticket price, until it comes down (Y 1,000 each). Onto a six-seater tented wedding boat we crawl, joined by a trio of men; like brides of yore, we float downstream as boat lady steers, offers a few facts about the 500 species of ayame and croons enka (ballads). On shore kindergarteners on field trips stride past the handkerchief-sized ayame, while the silver (over 65) set snap photos of each other. No one is camera shy in Nihon.
Next stop: A country inn that serves kaisecki (a traditional multi course meal). "I ate breakfast at 5 AM, let's have lunch now," said tomodachi san. At 11:15 a taxi dropped us on a hillside at the end of a long leafy drive much like old Edo. Shoes neatly lined up in the entry, a server in kimono ushered us to the comfort of a private tatami (strawmat) room. For two hours kimono servers present us with small dishes of seasonal treats, including a grilled fish (ayu) skewered with a stick on a rectangular platter. Oishkata (delicious)! Back on the highway bus, a happy trio return to Tokyo eki, sip Starbucks and marvel at the rain-free day. Can it be four weeks until blast off out of Nihon back to the West?
First stop: A boat ride on the Tonegawa, second longest river in the country, flowing along fields of thousands of irises in shades of blue and purple. Women in colorful costumes with straw hats attacked like a pack of coyote, looking for boat riders. Tomodachi-san rejects the ticket price, until it comes down (Y 1,000 each). Onto a six-seater tented wedding boat we crawl, joined by a trio of men; like brides of yore, we float downstream as boat lady steers, offers a few facts about the 500 species of ayame and croons enka (ballads). On shore kindergarteners on field trips stride past the handkerchief-sized ayame, while the silver (over 65) set snap photos of each other. No one is camera shy in Nihon.
Next stop: A country inn that serves kaisecki (a traditional multi course meal). "I ate breakfast at 5 AM, let's have lunch now," said tomodachi san. At 11:15 a taxi dropped us on a hillside at the end of a long leafy drive much like old Edo. Shoes neatly lined up in the entry, a server in kimono ushered us to the comfort of a private tatami (strawmat) room. For two hours kimono servers present us with small dishes of seasonal treats, including a grilled fish (ayu) skewered with a stick on a rectangular platter. Oishkata (delicious)! Back on the highway bus, a happy trio return to Tokyo eki, sip Starbucks and marvel at the rain-free day. Can it be four weeks until blast off out of Nihon back to the West?
Tuesday, June 15, 2010
The Business of Marriage
Matchmaking (omiai) is still a career option in Nihon. "My parents took me to a hotel with our omiai to meet my husband-to-be with his parents and matchmaker, " one tomodachi (friend) recalled about the first interview of her husband 25 years ago. "Three on each side of the table, with the matchmakers at the end of the table." After a sperm test (to check that late onset chickenpox had not impaired fertility), the deal was sealed and now two children attend med school. While at Juilliard studying piano, another tomodachi received a visit from parents with omiai since she reached the dangerous age of Christmas cake (stale after the 25th). Thanks to a serendipitous introduction she met a nihonjin in the Big Apple; they married and saved her parents a bundle. Each consultation starts at $100.
"My neighbor stopped by this morning with a present to tell me that it is settled with that her husband will move out," said tomodochi san at Eating Out Club this week. "She said it has all been fixed." Tomodachi-san admitted that she barely knew the neighbor, although there are only four flats in the building. The last time they spoke the neighbor mentioned her husband's retirement. Separation for empty nesters is not unusual among nihon no fufu (couples): After the job of raising a family is successfully completed, some wives prefer to live alone. Why the present? "As a thank you for listening."
Marriage is losing steam in this country, despite the parade of brides posing at the Meiji Jingu ( shrine) or by one of the many Prince Hotels. Young women are becoming "career girls," living with the parents and spending their earnings on designer handbags or trips abroad. The trend does not discourage matchmakers who specialize on different age groups and keep files of eligibles. "My friend's daughter has been looking for a husband for 18 years," said one tomodachi. "She hasn't found anyone suitable yet, and the pool of men is becoming smaller so she is meeting the same men again after all this time." Time moves quickly, tomodachis, how is it possible that in four weeks this blog will come to its natural conclusion?
"My neighbor stopped by this morning with a present to tell me that it is settled with that her husband will move out," said tomodochi san at Eating Out Club this week. "She said it has all been fixed." Tomodachi-san admitted that she barely knew the neighbor, although there are only four flats in the building. The last time they spoke the neighbor mentioned her husband's retirement. Separation for empty nesters is not unusual among nihon no fufu (couples): After the job of raising a family is successfully completed, some wives prefer to live alone. Why the present? "As a thank you for listening."
Marriage is losing steam in this country, despite the parade of brides posing at the Meiji Jingu ( shrine) or by one of the many Prince Hotels. Young women are becoming "career girls," living with the parents and spending their earnings on designer handbags or trips abroad. The trend does not discourage matchmakers who specialize on different age groups and keep files of eligibles. "My friend's daughter has been looking for a husband for 18 years," said one tomodachi. "She hasn't found anyone suitable yet, and the pool of men is becoming smaller so she is meeting the same men again after all this time." Time moves quickly, tomodachis, how is it possible that in four weeks this blog will come to its natural conclusion?
Sunday, June 13, 2010
Sunday in Shakuji
On an overcast Sunday the densha (train) whizzes Tokyoites with backpacks, sun hats and walking shoes to the outskirts. "Water Walks in Tokyo" by Enbutsu offers a selection of fourteen hikes: From the Manor the Toei Oedo line leads to Walk 2 Shakujikoen within 41 minutes (33 minutes on board plus eight to switch at Nerima) per the online Japanese Train Route Finder. On the platform a list of stations by line devised by a self-described "housewife," advises as to which carriage to board for quickest route to make connections. Thrilling to discover that Nerima, at the NW corner of Tokyo's 23 wards, is the birthplace of anime (Japanese animation).
Overlooking the river valley Shakuji Jo (castle) was home to the Toshima samurai clan nearly a thousand years ago and became their final resting place. While castle and clan are history, 21st century Tokyoites picnic on the grounds of Shakuji Koen (park), fish the two ponds and stroll a boardwalk trail. Floating lotus blossoms in Sanpoji Ike (pond) welcome visitors at the entry. A flash of turquoise alerts birdwatchers to the resident kawasemi (kingfisher). Aosagi (gray heron) and akagashira sagi (night heron) Sankuji Ike (pond) strike a pose in Shakuji Ike (pond) allowing tripod toting nihonjin to record the moment. The ubiquitous Asian karu gamo (spot billed duck) wearing yellow lipstick mingle with the more familiar ma-gamo (mallards).
Outside the park a brief detour follows an allee of pine trees to Dojo-ji, described by Enbutsu as an open air museum of Zen temple architecture. Children scamper on the grounds as adults attend a memorial service; a bell tolls. According to legend a priest is hiding in the bell to escape the advances of a woman whose passion turned her into a serpent. Around the corner a torii (gate) signals a shinto shrine, namely Sanpoji, with a magical serenity. A couple walks up to the altar, pulls the bell rope, bows in unison, claps, pays their respects. Back in the park a mama ban (moorhen) shows off her three chicks, for the pleasure of the birdwatchers on the shore. Shocking to discover that while out exploring a 6.2 earthquake shook musume out of a sound slumber.
Overlooking the river valley Shakuji Jo (castle) was home to the Toshima samurai clan nearly a thousand years ago and became their final resting place. While castle and clan are history, 21st century Tokyoites picnic on the grounds of Shakuji Koen (park), fish the two ponds and stroll a boardwalk trail. Floating lotus blossoms in Sanpoji Ike (pond) welcome visitors at the entry. A flash of turquoise alerts birdwatchers to the resident kawasemi (kingfisher). Aosagi (gray heron) and akagashira sagi (night heron) Sankuji Ike (pond) strike a pose in Shakuji Ike (pond) allowing tripod toting nihonjin to record the moment. The ubiquitous Asian karu gamo (spot billed duck) wearing yellow lipstick mingle with the more familiar ma-gamo (mallards).
Outside the park a brief detour follows an allee of pine trees to Dojo-ji, described by Enbutsu as an open air museum of Zen temple architecture. Children scamper on the grounds as adults attend a memorial service; a bell tolls. According to legend a priest is hiding in the bell to escape the advances of a woman whose passion turned her into a serpent. Around the corner a torii (gate) signals a shinto shrine, namely Sanpoji, with a magical serenity. A couple walks up to the altar, pulls the bell rope, bows in unison, claps, pays their respects. Back in the park a mama ban (moorhen) shows off her three chicks, for the pleasure of the birdwatchers on the shore. Shocking to discover that while out exploring a 6.2 earthquake shook musume out of a sound slumber.
Saturday, June 12, 2010
Yesterday in Yokohama
How is high school graduation like childbirth? Once in the actual moment, all careful preparation falls by the wayside. Three dear, generous tomodachis (friends) converged from points around Tokyo at Motomachi Chukagai eki (Chinatown station) to help parents applaud as musume-chan accepted her YIS (Yokohama International School) diploma on a Thursday evening. With a 7 PM ceremony two joined our family for an early bird supper; the third opted to meet at the school. Only the Trattoria at Barney's Yokohama was open for business at that unsophisticated hour, which turned out to be perfect. (Barney's is a popular label among Tokyoites.) The graduand (as seniors are called at YIS) changed into her evening clothes in the loo.
Yokohama, where the Queen Mary docks, boasts an ocean breeze no matter how high the temperature climbs. Sadly, the breeze was not invited to the ceremony: Looking crisp upon entry into the gymnasium, parents in kimono and serious finery soon wilted with just a Kyoto-standard issue fan blowing down in the enormous space. Soon guests unfolded hand fans, and before long programs turned into impromptu fans. The heat took its toll on our camera, which meant relying on generous tomodachis to record the event. After the student orchestra scratched out a prelude, school administrators expressed gratitude for all their colleagues-- except each other. Headmaster, in his final address before a transfer to Munich, described the circuitous path of his career from failed med student to school administrator; parents understood. By contrast student speeches were witty, irreverent and suitably sarcastic. Remarks in English from the guest of honor, the Governor of Kanagawa, were pithy and pertinent to the host country.
After 90 minutes the red-robed graduands strode to the stage for the handshake and leather bound diploma in two languages. High School Principal introduced each by name with a sentence about future plans, covering an enormous gamut ("Interpol agent," "science teacher," "pharmacist," "stock broker," "ski instructor," "model," "artist," many "don't yet know"). Musume expressed the desire to perfect her nihongo in order to become an interpreter and translator. After another musical interlude, hats thrown high, 59 international students embraced each other in a sweaty group hug and little ladies with trays served bottles of mineral water and Coke. A final nonalcoholic toast with everyone raising a glass of Appletizer, and finally in their status as graduates the whole gang took off into the cool wilds of Shibuya not to be seen again until long after sunrise.
Yokohama, where the Queen Mary docks, boasts an ocean breeze no matter how high the temperature climbs. Sadly, the breeze was not invited to the ceremony: Looking crisp upon entry into the gymnasium, parents in kimono and serious finery soon wilted with just a Kyoto-standard issue fan blowing down in the enormous space. Soon guests unfolded hand fans, and before long programs turned into impromptu fans. The heat took its toll on our camera, which meant relying on generous tomodachis to record the event. After the student orchestra scratched out a prelude, school administrators expressed gratitude for all their colleagues-- except each other. Headmaster, in his final address before a transfer to Munich, described the circuitous path of his career from failed med student to school administrator; parents understood. By contrast student speeches were witty, irreverent and suitably sarcastic. Remarks in English from the guest of honor, the Governor of Kanagawa, were pithy and pertinent to the host country.
After 90 minutes the red-robed graduands strode to the stage for the handshake and leather bound diploma in two languages. High School Principal introduced each by name with a sentence about future plans, covering an enormous gamut ("Interpol agent," "science teacher," "pharmacist," "stock broker," "ski instructor," "model," "artist," many "don't yet know"). Musume expressed the desire to perfect her nihongo in order to become an interpreter and translator. After another musical interlude, hats thrown high, 59 international students embraced each other in a sweaty group hug and little ladies with trays served bottles of mineral water and Coke. A final nonalcoholic toast with everyone raising a glass of Appletizer, and finally in their status as graduates the whole gang took off into the cool wilds of Shibuya not to be seen again until long after sunrise.
Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Rainy Season (tsuyu)
Full attendance of five ladies in gray tones around the table for English Conversation on the Wednesday that marked the start of rainy season. Composer-san, 15 minutes late as usual, has been in the kitchen since 5 AM stirring vegetable soup and preparing obento (lunch boxes) for her grown daughters and husband-- isogashii (busy). Two ladies slipped out of raincoats (one black, one white). With musume (daughter) about to graduate from high school, I circulated a prom photo. How grown up Western girls of 18 with lipstick appear! Thanks to Hollywood, our group has witnessed proms on the silver screen. Nihon no onna no ko (girls, literally : little women) are mere babies! Musume has an enviable alabaster complexion, they noted. (Drugstore shelves are laden with skin whitening products.) Like Princess Masako, I revealed, I needed medical intervention to have a baby; I pulled out the book I wrote 10 years back that describes my adventures in fertility treatment.
"What is the English word that describes how you must feel now?" asked obaasan (grandma) of five. "Grateful" was the best my limited vocabulary could muster; nihongo offered a richer variety of adjectives (kangai, bugai) for feelings of joy, pain and reaching a goal after much hard work. Current events provided two hot topics: the premiere of Sex and the City 2, and the appointment of a new prime minister. Since Composer-san's family is busy making music, they have no time for television; in fact, she does not own a TV so just smiles broadly as she often does. Who is Sarah Jessica Parker? she wondered. Obaasan objected to the nudity, Chef-san looked forward to the fashions and Traveler-san chuckled at the prospect of light comedy. Driver-san was most informed on the actresses, perhaps since her daughter now lives in New York. All voted Kim Cattrall the most attractive of the bunch.
As for the government shake-up, the group had high hopes for the new leader, Naoto Kan. "Our last prime minister and many of his cabinet members come from rich backgrounds," said Chef-san, leading to a discussion of the idiom "born with a silver spoon." Humorously, Kan's unofficial slogan is "Yes we Kan." Obaasan elaborated: "Mr Kan comes from a regular family and his wife is very intelligent. We call her the Japanese Hillary. Every night she debates with her husband and he usually loses." Then why isn't Mrs Kan prime minister? I carefully posed. Obaasan replied," It is not in our culture." In the US we tell girls they can grow up to run for president, why not here? "Our lifestyle will change," was the consensus of these accomplished, well-traveled women. What of the Sex and The City roles? "Yes, we have more career women in Japan now but...it is a slow process." Yet how quickly the past 18 years have flown! At sundown tomorrow parents of 50-odd students will attend Yokohama International School graduation ceremony.
"What is the English word that describes how you must feel now?" asked obaasan (grandma) of five. "Grateful" was the best my limited vocabulary could muster; nihongo offered a richer variety of adjectives (kangai, bugai) for feelings of joy, pain and reaching a goal after much hard work. Current events provided two hot topics: the premiere of Sex and the City 2, and the appointment of a new prime minister. Since Composer-san's family is busy making music, they have no time for television; in fact, she does not own a TV so just smiles broadly as she often does. Who is Sarah Jessica Parker? she wondered. Obaasan objected to the nudity, Chef-san looked forward to the fashions and Traveler-san chuckled at the prospect of light comedy. Driver-san was most informed on the actresses, perhaps since her daughter now lives in New York. All voted Kim Cattrall the most attractive of the bunch.
As for the government shake-up, the group had high hopes for the new leader, Naoto Kan. "Our last prime minister and many of his cabinet members come from rich backgrounds," said Chef-san, leading to a discussion of the idiom "born with a silver spoon." Humorously, Kan's unofficial slogan is "Yes we Kan." Obaasan elaborated: "Mr Kan comes from a regular family and his wife is very intelligent. We call her the Japanese Hillary. Every night she debates with her husband and he usually loses." Then why isn't Mrs Kan prime minister? I carefully posed. Obaasan replied," It is not in our culture." In the US we tell girls they can grow up to run for president, why not here? "Our lifestyle will change," was the consensus of these accomplished, well-traveled women. What of the Sex and The City roles? "Yes, we have more career women in Japan now but...it is a slow process." Yet how quickly the past 18 years have flown! At sundown tomorrow parents of 50-odd students will attend Yokohama International School graduation ceremony.
Tuesday, June 8, 2010
Hotel Okura
What the Waldorf-Astoria is to a New Yorker, the Hotel Okura is for the Tokyoite: a landmark a bit past its prime yet aging gracefully. No lobby exudes more glamor than the Okura with its circa 1960 design by Yoshiro Tanaguchi. Vis-a-vis the US Embassy by Kamiyacho eki, Secretary of State Hillary Clinton feels at home in the low building with its wide hallways. Hotel workers in kimono beckon visitors to the next elevator, bowing until the closing doors firmly meet. For decades the Okura has hosted the June program of the bi-cultural ladies social club. Last year the Empress addressed the assembly in tinkly tones to honor the 60th anniversary of the club; this year a boy band improbably called Le Velvets (not a typo) serenaded guests.
John and George Astor, flutemaking brothers from Waldorff, Germany, later fur merchants, built the Park Avenue hostelry. Baron Okura Kihachiro (1837-1928) of Niigata prefecture, a weapons dealer and an avid collector of Oriental antiques, endowed a museum as well as the luxury hotel in Toranomon. Japan owes their car culture to his son, Kishichiro (1882-1963), who attended Cambridge but turned to race car driving. Hai, the Okuras would have approved the pearl bedecked ladies filling the banquet hall. At the head table board members welcomed honored guests such as Mrs. Okada, wife of the Foreign Minister. When the prime minister resigned last week, Mr. Okada was briefly considered for the slot but remained in position.
"How do you do, I'm Midori," introduced my neighbor at the head table, as she turned out a co-founder of Ikebana International and widow of "Mr. Navy," a key member of General MacArthur's team sixty years ago. Japan is too hot in summer, she confided, which is why she will soon head out to San Francisco.Sending the ladies into summer vacation in the right frame of mind, Le Velvets (not a typo) belted oldies such as Frankie Valli's "You're Just Too Good to Be True" and, more incongruously, "O Sole Mio." Coffee was my cue as VP to stand up, thank the president and, on behalf of the assembly, proffer the standard silver photo frame (monogrammed). Only 48 hours now until graduation evening at Yokohama International School.
John and George Astor, flutemaking brothers from Waldorff, Germany, later fur merchants, built the Park Avenue hostelry. Baron Okura Kihachiro (1837-1928) of Niigata prefecture, a weapons dealer and an avid collector of Oriental antiques, endowed a museum as well as the luxury hotel in Toranomon. Japan owes their car culture to his son, Kishichiro (1882-1963), who attended Cambridge but turned to race car driving. Hai, the Okuras would have approved the pearl bedecked ladies filling the banquet hall. At the head table board members welcomed honored guests such as Mrs. Okada, wife of the Foreign Minister. When the prime minister resigned last week, Mr. Okada was briefly considered for the slot but remained in position.
"How do you do, I'm Midori," introduced my neighbor at the head table, as she turned out a co-founder of Ikebana International and widow of "Mr. Navy," a key member of General MacArthur's team sixty years ago. Japan is too hot in summer, she confided, which is why she will soon head out to San Francisco.Sending the ladies into summer vacation in the right frame of mind, Le Velvets (not a typo) belted oldies such as Frankie Valli's "You're Just Too Good to Be True" and, more incongruously, "O Sole Mio." Coffee was my cue as VP to stand up, thank the president and, on behalf of the assembly, proffer the standard silver photo frame (monogrammed). Only 48 hours now until graduation evening at Yokohama International School.
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