Sunday in Shakuji

      On an overcast Sunday the densha (train) whizzes Tokyoites with backpacks, sun hats and walking shoes to the outskirts. "Water Walks in Tokyo" by Enbutsu offers a selection of fourteen hikes: From the Manor the Toei Oedo line leads to Walk 2 Shakujikoen within 41 minutes (33 minutes on board plus eight to switch at Nerima) per the online Japanese Train Route Finder. On the platform a list of stations by line devised by a self-described "housewife," advises as to which carriage to board for quickest route to make connections. Thrilling to discover that Nerima,  at the NW corner of Tokyo's 23 wards, is the birthplace of anime (Japanese animation).

    Overlooking the river valley Shakuji Jo (castle) was home to the Toshima samurai clan nearly a thousand years ago and became their final resting place. While castle and clan are history, 21st century Tokyoites picnic on the grounds of Shakuji Koen (park), fish the two ponds and stroll a boardwalk trail. Floating lotus blossoms in Sanpoji Ike (pond) welcome visitors at the entry. A flash of turquoise alerts birdwatchers to the resident kawasemi (kingfisher). Aosagi (gray heron) and akagashira sagi (night heron)  Sankuji Ike (pond) strike a pose in Shakuji Ike (pond) allowing tripod toting nihonjin to record the moment. The ubiquitous Asian karu gamo (spot billed duck) wearing yellow lipstick mingle with the more familiar ma-gamo (mallards).  

     Outside the park a brief detour follows an allee of pine trees to Dojo-ji, described by Enbutsu as an open air museum of Zen temple architecture. Children scamper on the grounds as adults attend a memorial service; a bell tolls. According to legend a priest is hiding in the bell to escape the advances of a woman whose passion turned her into a serpent. Around the corner a torii (gate) signals a shinto shrine, namely Sanpoji, with a magical serenity. A couple walks up to the altar, pulls the bell rope, bows in unison, claps, pays their respects. Back in the park a mama ban (moorhen) shows off her three chicks, for the pleasure of the birdwatchers on the shore. Shocking to discover that while out exploring a 6.2 earthquake shook musume out of a sound slumber.