Ozu Washi Shop, Nihonbashi

       After two years of investing in endless packets of mitsu matagami type washi (literally wa for Japanese, shi for paper) in shodo (calligraphy) class, some tomodachis indulged me in a visit to Ozu Washi. Since 17th c samurai days Tokyoites have traveled to the shop to buy their washi. Museums proudly display scrolls from the Edo Period and earlier, proving the durability of this cottony textured  paper. Ozu offers the option of making your own washi and this group is ready to roll up our sleeves. Via Ginza line to the old Nihonbashi part of town, we rendezvoused at Mitsukoshimae (in front of the Mitsukoshi depato), passing eager shoppers lining up in anticipation of their day's sport.

    Ten minutes by foot from Exit A3 led to a shop in the shadow of the overhead Shuto expressway. Our Ozu guide stepped on the street to introduce us to the kozo (mulberry) trees that grow in front of the shop:  Washing and boiling the bark results in washi pulp. Ushering us inside she instructed us to remove watches and rings since we must immerse our arms into an icy bath of mashed pulp; many thousands of dollars of jewelry tucked away in pocketbooks and locked in a classroom, the obedient group followed to the workshop.

     Aprons on everyone! She introduced us to the craftsman who walks us through the paces: Stand by the sukibune (tub), grab the sugeta (screened tray), dunk into the slimy liquid and jostle while counting to 20. Excellent way to build biceps! Repeat. Drain the wet sheet by passing over a vacuum, place on a frame and design using materials at hand (liquid dyes, confetti, string). Allow to dry on a heated iron and you have a unique sheet of washi. Sugoi! Kozogami with its clothlike texture is suitable for clothing; a wedding dress is on display in the showroom. Technology has streamlined the ancient system of washing and hanging out to dry on the line for hours or days. Browsing the shop for one hour, drawers full of washi tempted and we succumbed.