Volcano Visit

    Two hours north from Haneda airport (think: Laguardia) lands a Tokyoite in Chitose Airport, Hokkaido ("North Sea circuit"), the prefecture closest to Siberia. When picking up dinner in Peacock Supa (market) in the Juban all dairy products are stamped from Hokkaido, and during rainy season it is famously dry. Sayonara humidity, konnichiwa rolling green hills reminiscent of upstate New York! Cows and farm buildings could be borrowed from any TV Western, and long stretches of road without a car in sight are not unlike our own stretch of Route 57 in Massachusetts. Traffic signs in nihongo, as well as road crews every few minutes, are constant reminders that we are in new territory. As we have been warned not to disturb the local cops,  every car that comes by passes us.

    After driving through many small villages with main streets that would be comfortable in South Dakota, at last we arrive at the Hilton Resort, Niseko, facing the ancient volcano Yoteizan (Mt Yotei).  In winter it is a haven for skiers, but now it provides cool breezes in the evening.  The next day we visit lively volcano, Showashinzan, which only erupted in 1944 as an unlucky omen; it continues to exude smoke in a dramatic manner. No better way to end a day of volcanic visits than a stop at the Hilton onsen (hot spring), which allows for sitting outside in the buff and contemplating Yoteizan. Men and women are segregated, with a discreet bamboo screen dividing the two (remember, this is nude bathing).

    Since Niseko is a ski resort, many restaurants feature a German menu. Why not try one with the attractive name of Mozart? Some cars parked outside are an encouraging sign; inside there appears to be a small flea market in one corner with a huddle of ladies. One has misplaced her wallet, which sends everyone checking under the table. The smiling hostess asks us to remove shoes, offering slippers. Chief, cook and bottlewash she disappears into the kitchen to cook up three huge sized authentic Viennese schnitzels with fresh asparagus, while her neko-chan (cat) wanders through the dining area. Amy Winehouse music wafting in the background, can Tokyoites ask for more?