Seven Lucky Gods

      Born Shinto, die Buddhist, is the conventional pattern in Japan. In between seek guidance from the Shichi Fukujin (Seven Lucky Gods), which includes one goddess: Benten-sama. She's got a lot on her plate as the protector deity of knowledge and the flow of creativity, specifically words and music. With temples and shrines dotting the town, Tokyoites in search of spiritual guidance are well covered. Unlike Western places of worship, paying respects Japanese style takes place out in the open. Up the hill from the Manor the small temple provides what appears like a small booth with statues and flowers. The worshipper pulls the bell rope to alert the deities to a human request, bows twice, claps twice, prays and takes a final bow. Tossing a coin into the money box is the polite thing to do.

     For supplicants with specific needs there are issue appropriate temples. Writers and musicians, for example, would do well to head to Tokyo Tower. In its shadow sits Benten-sama's temple, Shoren-ja. Created for a Tokugawa princess of the Kanei era (1600s) on the first and seventeenth of each month all are invited in to stimulate the flow of creativity. Stepping gingerly on the stone path, the altar to Benten-sama is flush to the end of a thirty foot long tunnel carved into a hillside. Candles light the curved path, which requires a flashlight for proper navigation. (During wartime Benten-sama's tunnel was a safe haven.) For best results leave an offering on the altar next to the melon and melon sized onion; a pound cake and a tin of loose tea made a nice balance.

    Although the temple is a stone's throw from Kamiyacho (site of the 1995 sarin gas attack) even the nihonjin in a group from the academically oriented women's group were astonished by this secret treasure. What good fortune that after some prodding, the California-born daughter-in-law of the resident priest generously invited our crowd. Ushered into the small temple building, we stepped out of our shoes and squatted on the tatami mat. Ottosan (father-in-law) made a few opening remarks, including the fact that he never anticipated his son would marry an American. After sharing many ancient relics, all the visitors did our best to bow properly upon our exit. Out on the street it was business as usual as the Number 97 headed to Shibuya and the month of June barrel s along to graduation day at Yokohama International School.